THE HINDHU Online edition of India's National Newspaper Monday, Feb 15, 2010
As our speedboat nears the Male jetty from the airport island of Hulhule, the Maldivian flag flutters imperiously in the breeze.
‘Maldives', the word, has many origins, but when you see the country from the sky it looks like a ‘mala dweep' or a necklace of islands. And, a view of the Maldives from the sky is necessary. In the dark waters of the Indian Ocean, each island is like a drop of turquoise. However, the tranquillity of the view from above is forgotten when you see Male from the boat.
The small island, only about two sq km in area, is a teeming metro. One of the most densely-populated areas in the world, it is home to about one-third of the Maldives' population of about 300,000.
When anyone mentions Maldives, the vision of exquisite resorts and beautiful waters comes up. Male represents the other Maldives — where you can soak in the character of a people whose country is more sea than land.
It takes about 45 minutes to walk around Male on the shoreline. With the Indian Ocean lapping quietly on the sides, a mere 1.5 metres below, the walk is the best way to observe the way the Maldivians have tailored their lives to the sea. The gentle waves keep a soft melody going as one walks the embankment. Nearby is a memorial for those dead in the 2004 tsunami. As the traffic screeches past on the road, we reach one of the most popular spots. The ‘artificial beach', a man-made enclosure of the sea, is where local girls and boys swim. There is no natural beach in Male due to extensive reclamation, but this piece of appropriated sea is a good place to observe the bond between the locals and the sea.
After a swim, they sit dripping and listen to a band, if playing, on a stage on the shore. Others cross the road and sprawl before a public screen, and watch a football match being played somewhere in the world. Some wander off to fish. Public reclining chairs along the shore are full in the evenings, as islanders watch the world go by.
Time stands still, in a sense. As one walks past the busy port area, the local vegetable and fish market comes up. ‘Dhonis' or traditional boats loaded with fruit, vegetable and the day's catch continuously arrive, dock, are unloaded and their wares carried across the road to the bustling market. Some distance from the market area is the local jetty. From here, dhonis carry passengers to various local islands. Like other big cities of the world, Male too has its suburb. Vilingily is a tiny island, about five minutes by the dhoni. It is a residential area, with a nice natural beach and trees.
Crisscrossing Male, Majidi Magu and Chandini Magu are the main shopping arteries. Goods from all over the world peep out of retail shops. Male also hosts a national library, museum, Sultan Park, football fields and a jogging track. It is well worth a visit to absorb how the nation has evolved a rhythm with the sea over centuries.
Going underwater due to climate change may be their biggest threat, but the Maldivian bonding with the sea is so innate and fine-tuned that together they will find a way to survive.
June '10